After Gyil Comes Drums

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With lessons up and running, its time to tackle the drums of Ghana. The drumming I've learned in 2011 focused on technique, and only scratched the surface of the Dagara Music Center's repertoire. Since traveling to Ghana in 2011 I've added a handful of new pieces , but far from what I've wanted to know. Through my 9 months in Ghana I was able to learn more than I ever expected. Not only was I able to learn many pieces I've heard for years, but I was able to learn pieces that I never knew existed. 

The first pieces I started with was Kpanlogo, Kpatsa and Fume Fume, all from the Ga ethnicity. Kpanlogo originated between the late 1950's to early 1960's by the youth of Accra. To this day Kpanlogo rhythms and songs can be heard on the streets of Accra, and almost all popular music has aspects of Kpanlogo embedded in it.

While I know less about Kpatsa and Fume Fume, both are performed for important Ga ceremonies. Kpatsa is associated with the Dipo ceremony, a celebration of coming of age. Young girls would traditionally go through a long process of learning about womanhood and marriage. Once this process is complete, the girls are brought out and celebrated by the community. Fume Fume on the other hand celebrates traditional Ga spiritual practices, and is associated with healing the sick. All of these pieces present unique challenges, and great enjoyment when being performed. 

Bewaa! The Dagara Recreational Music

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8:30 am and lessons were starting. The first lesson of the day was always gyil, and my first lessons were on bewaa. In 2011 Jerome and myself spent months working on Saakumu's arrangement of bewaa. When it was time for me to leave I had learned a majority of the songs, though time would challenge my knowledge. After four years in America, time successfully took many bewaa songs from my memory. Now that I have returned to Ghana I began retrieving my forgotten songs. Relearning this bewaa arrangement was a very unique experience. While I hadn't heard many of these forgotten songs for years, they were significantly less foreign, and took to my ears and hands much quicker than a new song. While learning the completely arrangement took only a few weeks, how to perform this arrangement in their true form didn't come until much later in my trip. This transformation is one of the most memorable aspects from this journey, and one I will discuss in much more detail another day.

Dagara Music Center

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While the Kobine festival was an amazing experience, I was very happy to be back at the Dagara Music Center. My daily routine started again with 6 hours of lessons day. Most days would start at 7:00 am, with breakfast around 7:30. After eating for about an hour it was time to play some gyil. Lessons would start at 8:30 and go to about 12, with a small break around 10. At 12 I would eat and take a nap, but not always in that order. I'd then have free time right through 4pm, when evening lessons would start. These lessons would go for about three hours, and then it was time for dinner! After dinner I'd either get a beer at mango tree spot or venture down to Evelyn's new spot called Freezonia! By 10:00pm it was off to bed to rest up for the next day.

The DMC started as a home. From a home it became a school, that is now a center for the community at large. Now the DMC isn't just a center, but has become home to people across the world. For nine months I was proud to call the DMC my home, and now I will share that home with everyone.

The first thing you see when you come into the center is the dance floor! In addition to a dance floor, this is also where the local women will dry corn or millet in the scorching sun. Next to the dance floor is the DMC store that sells a little of everything! Next to the store is a small dormitory for students, and where most of the xylophones are kept. Next to the dormitory is the gazebo. Morning lessons are taught here to avoid the sun. During the day people take naps and relax in and around the gazebo. At night the gazebo becomes the dinning hall and a place for hanging out. Behind the gazebo is the main home where the family lives and relaxes. For the 9 months I was in Ghana, five nights of the week the whole family would gather in the living and watch Kumkum Bhagya. Kumkum Bhagya is an Indian soap opera that was overdubbed in Twi. I'm convinced that this show will be played in Ghana for the rest of my life.

Last day of Kobine: Back to Medie

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With the festival officially over, it was time to head home. Dorwana still had to be with the funeral, so Mike and myself would be traveling alone. Traveling back to Medie would prove to be much simpler then traveling to the upper west. After saying goodbye to Baaru Sr, we bought our tickets right in town. The bus leaves from Nandom, the next city north of Lawra, and drives through Lawra. While Dorwana wasn't around, we did have help from a man called Bernard (not Woma).

Bernard is a young man whom is very determined. He was on the Kobine Festival planning committee, and could always been seen working. We talked to Bernard about his future and current goals as we waited for the bus (which was a few hours late). As we waited for the bus we decided to get out of the sun and have a few beers. Eventually the bus arrived and we started our journey. The bus stopped a few other locations, one being Jirapa. What is interesting about Jirapa is that this area has greatly influenced the bewaa style. While we only stopped for a minute, being able to put an image to the name was fantastic. After Jirapa we had to switch busses for reasons unbeknown to me. After one last stop in Wa, we officially started our 12 hour journey south. After arriving in Medie around 5am, our Upper West trip has officially ended!

Mr. Matt and Mr. Mike Please Come to the Field

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Day 2 of Kobine: Dorwana left late in the night to travel to a funeral south of Lawra. Mike and I met with Samuel Baaru at 7am. The Baaru family are well known gyil builders in Lawra, and good friends of Dorwana. Samuel was a part of the festival planning committee and helped us around Lawra. The fact that Mike and I were played gyil came up in a conversation and Dorwana pushed to have us to play at the festival. So after a quick early morning "audition" we were on the schedule. After our meeting we headed back to the guesthouse for breakfast and to gather our equipment for the rest of the day.

The festival started around 10am. Again all ensembles played at once and then a few more speeches were given. It was about an hour and half before we were called to the festival ground. Mike, myself and Samuel performed a small bewaa arrangement and got a "kudos" from the MC, great success in my opinion!

After our performance there was a few more speeches and then the competition began. Groups competed in three different sections. The first section was for dalri groups which was followed by bewaa ensembles. The ensembles would have 10 minutes to perform, with three ensembles usually performing at once. The last section of the competition was vocal ensembles. The vocal ensembles are comprised of one lead vocalist, and a group which responds to the leader. Unlike the instrumental ensembles, the vocal ensembles perform one by one. 

There was a handful of judges on the field throughout the competition, convening in the late afternoon to discuss scores and to determine winners. Winners were announced in the early evening, and then it was back to the guest house. After dropping off our equipment and changing we went out for a beer, then explored the festival grounds. By early evening the grounds had become a large speaker box dance party. We were able to check out some gyil that was being played away from the dance party. After all of this it was dinner time which was traditional dagara jojo. After dinner I went out to buy some water then it was off to bed!

The hunt!

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The first day of the Kobine festival! Had a great breakfast at the guesthouse, and then headed to meet the chief of Lawra. After meeting with the chief, a large procession to the festival grounds started. Chiefs and queen mothers from the surrounding area walked under vibrant red umbrellas. Accompanying the chiefs and queen mothers were musicians and festival attendees slowly walking while singing, gyil playing musket fire. Not something you see everyday in America or Ghana. 

After the procession every group that was to perform at Kobine took to the field playing and dancing, creating sonic chaos. From that point the chief poured libations and the festival had officially started. The first cultural event was the demonstration of the hunt. It is said that Lawra was discovered from a hunting party. To demonstrate this hunt, one group of people slowly walk around holding elephant and water buffalo hides. The second group slowly stalks them with empty muskets. While the muskets weren't dangerous, they were extremely loud.

After the hunt dalari groups from around the area performed. Dalari are drums made from clay pots in groups of five. While I have heard dalari many times, This was my first time seeing dancing accompany the drums. After the morning cultural events, the festival turned its focus to local politicians and festival sponsors giving speeches. In the late afternoon Mike, myself and Dorwana enjoyed a nice cold beer and relaxed. Before the end of the day all groups performed at the same time to close the festival. For the rest of the evening the three of us did some exploring then headed back to the guesthouse. Tomorrow would start the competition portion of the festival, and have at least one surprise!

From Donyɛ to Lawra

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After a great stay at Donyɛ it was time for Mike and myself to travel to our next destination. Waking up around 5am, we packed our things and went to the shrine for the final part of the mwan goba ceremony, and a final washing at the shrine. By 6:30am we finished at the shrine, sent our bags to the bus and said our last goodbyes. We were able to board our tro tro with no problems, and had a easy ride to Wa. At Wa we ate and then proceeded to Lawra.

Lawra is the next city north of Wa and the host of Kobine, the first of three xylophone festivals in Ghana. Being able to attend these xylophone festivals was a large reason for traveling to Ghana. We arrived at our guest house in the mid afternoon. I had my first real shower since leaving the DMC, and it was fantastic. I was able to charge all my electronics, and take a well deserved nap. In the evening we had a nice cold beer and then some Indomie downtown. Indomie is a style of cooking that has taken Ghana by storm in the past few years. Instant noodles, which the term Indomie comes from are mixed with egg and vegetables making a delicious and filling meal! After dinner we headed back to our hotel to rest up for the first day of the festival. 

First as bitter as death...then as gentle as life...finally as sweet as love...

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Throughout our stay at Donyɛ, there would be downtime throughout the day. During this downtime we would talk to the family, listen to some gyil, explore the area and enjoy this amazing place in the north. During our relaxation, we were able to try Arabic style tea. The tea is not out of the ordinary, and sugar is added like any other tea. The unique aspect comes from the brewing process. A very small kettle is used to brew a whole box of tea. The same tea is used two additional times. The first glass is quite bitter from the large amount of tea used. However after each serving the sugar becomes the predominant taste. From this process it is said that the first glass is as bitter as death, the second is as gentle as life, and the third glass is as sweet as love. (The pictures below were taken by Mike!)

Hearing gyil was never uncommon throughout our stay. At times Dorwana or the Vuur family would play. Sometimes this playing would be for Mike and I, other times they would play for each other to exchange musical ideas. The most amazing times was when the music and dancing was simply for enjoyment. 

One evening the older children brought a pair of bogyil to play. Bogyil are xylophones tuned differently from most instruments found in the Upper West. In Birifor culture the bogyil is the primary instrument for Bagr ceremonies (more on that later!) The bogyil are also played occasionally at funerals to increase dancers' excitement. Mike and I sat and listened to the playing for hours. As soon as the music started dancing followed. Everyone from toddlers to adults danced, laughed, and enjoyed the music well into the night. In Donyɛ down time can produce some of the most exciting moments.

Shots & Interviews

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The day after the mwan goba ceremony, Mike and I were to interview and record the Vuur family. While we waited for our bath water to warm on the fire, we walked to one of the brother's house. After we arrived at the home we were given shots of akpeteshie for a welcome, and the brother brought a gyil that was 100 to 200 years old. This was the xylophone which El Vuur used throughout his life. A truly amazing instrument which Mike was able to photograph (I left my camera behind not thinking). After about an hour at the brother's, we headed back home to bath and prepare for the interviews.

The interview would be focused on the mwan goba ceremony. From this interview we would then record and discuss Birifor funeral music. By late morning, one more round of shots was offered, libations poured and the interview began. For the next hour we discussed all aspects of the mwan goba ceremony. We learned the origin and maintenance of the shrine and the effects the ceremony has on the individual. Mike and myself also learned about minute details surrounding the ceremony and various hypothetical situations, such as what is to be done if the shrine was accidentally destroyed. All of this can be seen by following the link below.

After learning about the mwan goba ceremony, we began recording and discussing gyil music. First we recorded Mwan Vuur. Mwan is a stellar player, and for many listeners a way to remember his father's music. For this performance, Vuur family and friends accompanied mwan, playing through every section of Birifor funeral music. Mwan also showed what musical changes are made depending on the gender of the deceased. Occasionally Mike and I would ask questions whileDorwana would draw our attention to specific aspects of the music. Once Mwan finished the complete cycle of funeral music, a second gyil player started the whole process again. While I forget his name, this player was not from the Vuur family, and showed Mike and I a second way to play the same music. Since all Birifor music is learned aurally, and often just from observing from afar, each player will have a unique style or "hand". By the time all of these recordings were finished it was late in the afternoon. With these hours of interviews and recording the amount of information is still being absorbed to this day, and for the beginning of trip signaled just how much I would learn throughout my stay.

Mwan Goba: The Monkey Paw Ceremony

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At the start of our first full day, Mike and myself started the Mwan Goba ceremony. This ceremony is the first of four ceremonies, all which help the xylophonist in unique ways. The Mwan Goba ceremony is to "open" the left hand through washing, giving it greater dexterity and accuracy. Throughout Birifor music the left hand creates a sonic foundation which the right hand glides over.

In addition to opening the left hand, this ceremony also offers spiritual protection. While the idea of both physical and spiritual enemies are present throughout Birifor culture, no one experiences the enemy more than xylophonists. To learn more about this topic, I highly recommend Brian Hogan's dissertation "Enemy Music: Blind Birifor Xylophonists of Northwest Ghana."

There are many steps to prepare for the ceremony. First the family collects special herbs from around the home. These herbs are mixed with liquid in the shrine which will be used to wash. For the ceremony itself, Mike and myself purchased 4 chickens and 2 fowls. In addition to the fowls, one ram was brought for the Vuur family. During the ceremony all the fowls were sacrificed, some to the shrine itself and others to the ancestors. Using the fowls, the family was able to discuss our mission with the ancestors. Through these discussions, Mike and myself were given spiritual protection and guidance. After the sacrifices, the next step was to take a shot of special herbs mixed with akpeteshie.

The last step of the ceremony was the washing itself. The washing process included several steps, each repeated three times. Each step would use the liquid prepared in the shrine. The first step is blotting your forehead, and then washing your entire face. Using a quick motion, we would spread the liquid across the top and bottom of our left arm. After washing our left arm, the last step of the ceremony was to wash our right arm.

For the next three days we would repeat the washing process three to four times a day. One of the most interesting aspects of this whole process was the references to practice and learning. With elder gyil players, the idea of musical practice and learning are never spoken of. Gyil music is almost always thought to be given to a person by the ancestors. After this ceremony it was made clear that learning and performing would be improved, but the effects of the mwan goba ceremony would dissipate if regular practice was not maintained. There was also a real monkey paw that was over 80 years old that was a part of the shrine, that was also really interesting.

If anyone wants to see the video of the ceremony send me an email at matthew.aubeuf@gmail.com It is on youtube but you need the link to access it.

Donyɛ!

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Donyɛ is the home of the Vuur family. The late El Vuur is consider to be one of the greatest gyil players in Birifor culture. With El Vuur's repitutatioin, many Birifor gyil players would travel to Donyɛ to learn from El Vuur. El Vuur would also help gyil players refine their own compositions, in effect making them sound more traditional. Unfortunately El Vuur passed away several years ago. Today the family home is looked after by Saandar and Mwan Vuur. 

The home is traditionally built usuing gravel and cow dung, held up by large logs and various sized crossbeams. Similar logs are used for ladders to gain access to the roof which are flat with a slight angle for water drainage. The roofs serve many purposes in daily life.  During the harvest season crops are dried on then stored in large containers inside the homes. These containers are built with the same material as the homes with an opening in the roof. These openings are then covered with either thatching or a clay pot. The roofs are also a great place for a nice cool sleep during the dry season.

As families grow, men may leave the original home and start their own homes. These homes will commonly be a short walk from each other. The main farm land will be past the bush, away from the home. This allows for greater space and to prevent domesticated animals from destroying crops. 

After our arrival we spent a little time relaxing at our new home. The next day we would start our Donyɛ mission. The first part of our mission at Donyɛ was to be a part of a Mwan Goba ceremony, which I will describe in detail tomorrow. The second part of our mission was to record the family performing Birifor funeral music, and then interviewing the family as a whole. 

Going North

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Before I knew it, I was in the Upper West. Mike, Dorwana and myself set off to Donyɛ in the evening. The first step is to travel from Accra to Wa. Luckily Dorwana sent his son to Accra to board the bus. By doing this as it approached Medie, he would make the bus stop and so we could board. This plan almost worked perfectly. While it did save us a tro tro ride to Accra, we did have to take a tro tro down the road to the next bus stop. Finally onboard our large coach bus, we then road 12 hours north to Wa. Once we arrived in Wa, our next step was to find transportation to Wechiau. With Wa being the capital of the Upper West, transportation is fairly easily to find. With little effort we were able to find a tro tro that brought us to Wechiau. It is traveling from Wa to Wechiau when I took this picture.

Yes the road is dirt, and it happens to be one of the better roads outside of Wa. With heavy rain and a quick moving tro tro, life has suddenly become quite interesting. After a downpour and some hydroplaning, the Ghanaians in the car gave the driver a friendly reminder that crashing was not on the itinerary. From this point onwards the roads seemed to shrink in width, but grew in depth as large trenches emerged in the road. 

After a little while we arrived in Wechiua. From here we were suppose to pick up a second tro tro that would be traveling to Donyɛ for their market day. We waited for some time and no car came. Luckily our original tro tro did not leave, and we were able to convince the driver to take Mike, Dorwana and myself to Donyɛ...not without 80 cedies of course. The private tro tro ride was quite nice, and I was able to catch a nap on the way. Upon arriving to Donyɛ we were greeted by some friendly hellos and a fresh batch of pito. After a few calabashes of pito we were greeted by the Vuur family. For the next few days we would stay with their family, learning more then I ever could have imagined. 

To see exactly where I was, scroll down and check out the map I created via google!

The Original Land Lord!

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Mike Vercelli is someone that I've known about for a few years. Having studied gyil for years, Mike is extremely knowledgable. He has worked with both Dorwana and Bernard, and has great things to say when it comes to both Dagara and Birifor music. In addition to his work with Ghanaian music, he teaches many different styles of world music at West Viriginia University.

During 2011 and 2012 Mike was able to bring Dorwana to the United States to tour, teach and record a two volume album of Birifor funeral music. Through this project Mike was able to travel to Ghana in October to attend the Kobine festival, the first of three gyil festivals in the Upper West. Before arriving at Kobine, Mike and myself traveled to a small village called Donyɛ.  

While I will go in depth on our travels over the next fews day, I will end this post by saying how great it was traveling with Mike to the north, and having him at the DMC at the start of my trip. We were able to discuss different ideas around gyil and Ghanaian music. Mike had great stories from when he lived in Ghana for 6 months, gaining the title Land Lord. Overall he was a great guide for the start of my trip in Ghana.

Dorwana!

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Dorwana Tijan is one of the most amazing musicians I have met throughout my life. The youngest brother of Kakraba Lobi (Sinyiri Tijan), Dorwana has been performing gyil for decades. He was a member of the Ghana Dance Ensemble at Legon, playing the music of all Ghanaian cultures. In addition to being an amazing musician, he is also a master gyil builder. Building xylophones for years, one could argue that most xylophones in America have been built by him. 

During my stay in Ghana, Dorwana taught me his culture's gyil and drumming music, while also helping me learn the basics of gyil construction. I quickly realized that I am much better with a mallet than with an axe! In addition to lessons, Dorwana helped me travel to his hometown Saru, and throughout the Birifor homeland. No matter where we were, he was always willing to explain to me Birifor music and its cultural role.

A unique characteristic is Dorwana's desire to learn. While its obvious that Dorwana is a master of his culture's music, he is still avidly learning as much as he can. While traveling he would always record xylophonist, discuss cultural practices, and ask as many questions as possible. Back home he would listen to these recordings and slowly work through new musical ideas, comparing what he already knows to these new styles. In addition to learning more about his own culture, he has spent many years learning the music around him. If music is involved, Dorwana will surely take part.

E For Evil, J for Juju, D for Devil: Three of my best friends!

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These guys! For months these guys have taught me, had beer and guinea fowl with me, put up with me, and always have been there for me. Eddie taught me the drumming I know. With a big smile, and a hearty laugh to match, Eddie is one of the friendliest people I've met. He taught me to say palm drumming instead of hand drumming, something I can totally get behind. He brought around the entire village once to lift the drumming ban, there were a few "libations" involved and a reward of 30 cedis. Jerome, my gyil teacher, didn't understand why we had to play for so long...but did not complain about the free beer we got.

Speaking of Jerome, he is responsible for almostalmost everything I know when it comes to gyil. We have traveled across Ghana together, he has led me on many adventures, and once gave me raw pork. Fresh meat is the best meat? Through the years of knowing Jerome, he has become a brother to me. Jerome always has interesting ideas on music, culture, and always has something to say to make me laugh. He always is down for an evening beer and along with myself has a PPP, a permanent personal pregnancy. Jerome is always excited to teach me the next thing, and insists he will build me a house in the Dagara homeland.

Dennis, the newest member of the crew is the best...goofy...but the best. Due to learning English, Dennis started calling me Mario instead of Matthew. I'm not sure if he realized this so I started calling him Derio. I figured if he noticed he would go back to calling me Matt and if he didn't notice we would continue calling each other Mario and Derio.  To this day it's Mario and Derio, and I couldn't enjoy it more. Dennis has so much patience and is a great player, and well established creator of traditional music! I learned of his patience by making him teach me Binne, Dagara funeral music. Easily one of the most complicated styles of gyil music, for two hours a day Dennis would spoon feed me this music with varying levels of success. I was only able to scratch the surface of Binne, but through our lessons Dennis became one of my newest friends. A friend that I'll never forget.

I have too many stories about these guys for one post, maybe even one blog. As time goes on I'll include more stories and memories. While I love remembering everything about these guys, I'm looking forward to the next adventure, until then stay out of trouble!

Boom Boom Woma!

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Yesterday I wrote a little about the woman who kept me alive on a day to day basis. Today I will be talking a little bit about the man who made this all possible...Bernard Woma! For everyone who doesn't know, Bernard Woma is both founder and director of the Dagara Music Center and Saakumu Dance Troupe. The DMC was founded sixteen years ago, and ever since then he has opened his home to students from around the world.

I first met Bernard three days before I started my undergraduate degree. Bernard was about to move to Indiana to continue his education, and was having one last gyil jam in front of the SUNY Fredonia music building. Everyone around brought their xylophones out on this warm sunny day. From the moment I heard these instruments I knew I was hooked on gyil.

That following summer I traveled to Ghana with SUNY Fredonia, studying gyil and drumming while experiencign the craziness of the DMC's 10 year anniversary. The following summer I went back to the DMC, this time for two months. After this trip I knew Ghana had a special place in my heart. What I did not know is that in four years I would be living in Ghana for nine months. While I was there Bernard helped me with everything, even while he continued his own work here in America. Every time Bernard visited Ghana he worked as hard as any young man, making sure everything ran perfectly. Even while managing the DMC and Saakumu, he continued to share his knowledge on gyil and drumming with the students at the center. To make a long story short, without Bernard not only would I not have experienced this amazing trip to Ghana, I may never had gotten a chance to study the many musics found in this amazing country.

The story of the Dagara Music Center and Bernard's work is far from over. Currently he is in the process of building a new school that will not only help students from around the world, but will radically change the community in which he lives. Bernard continues to share his music around the world. Touring both throughout Ghana and America with his dance troupe, while teaching future generations of dancers and musicians. This story is far from over.

Mama Rita and Songdedoh

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Shortly after arriving at the DMC it was time to party! The occasion was Songdedoh turning five years old! Pictured with Songdedoh is her mother, and the women who kept me alive, Mama Rita! Rita cooked amazing meals every day. She would always have a smile on her face and always had the best things to say. Not to mention she bakes the most amazing bread in Ghana. Occasionally Rita would convince me to buy her a beer and some guinea fowl, which was always the least I could do!

The party itself was pretty different, but a lot of fun! There was cake made by Rita, plenty of minerals (soda) and some sparkling grape juice! The kids of the neighborhood all came by and since its Ghana, there was dancing! The kids were a little shy to dance at first, and the popular music wasn't catching their interest. This all changed with one song, a song produced from Burkina Faso. This song was packed with an electronic backbeat, an electronic gyil tuned to a minor scale with meandering Dagara lyrics on top of it all. When this song came on all the kids were jumping and contracting, perfect Dagara dancing. Due to the popularity of this song it was repeated for about an hour straight! All together this afternoon birthday party was a complete success!

Pictures and Words

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September 19th, 2015 my journey to Ghana started. My bags were packed, my expectations suspended, and all that I knew was that something amazing was about to happen. Six months turned into nine months, and every corner I turned was a new adventure. Now I have returned to America, and want to share these adventures with you. Everyday I will post and explain a picture from my journey, . 

These three pictures were taken the day I flew to Ghana. The trip started with a morning flight from Syracuse to JFK. I was able to check my luggage directly to Ghana which I was not sure would be possible. With a sad goodbye to my parents, it was off to New York City. Both flights were through Delta so I did not have to go through security or switch terminals. Had several hours to check in and relax. There was a bit confusion with my visa, which would be a common theme throughout my stay. After a small dinner and a bit more waiting, it was time to go. After a smooth 10 hour flight I crossed the atlantic ocean and arrived in what would become my second home. 

Traveling to Ghana

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It is the night before my journey starts and I'm packed and ready to go! I will be leaving for JFK from Syracuse at 11:00am tomorrow. I will then have a few hours to relax before my 4:45 flight to Accra. Packing went fairly smooth, definitely have more than I expected but hopefully everything will be needed. Keep checking back for updates, as I begin studying I'm sure I'll have much more interesting things to write, but now its time to travel!